Sunday 6 November 2011

Solna Hotel, Sefton Park. (The quest for a decent breakfast)

NB these notes were taken during a hotel stay in 2007.

Let me start by stating that I have stayed in worse hotels in Liverpool.  Previously I had a very poor experience at the Adelphi: Poor attention to detail with the cleaning of the room and very slow customer service.  The Marriot started well with prompt and courteous room service, well appointed room, clean and modern en suite with a decent shower which was let down by a small detail: No hot water.  The less said about the cooked breakfast at the Marriot, the better.  Is it so difficult to obtain a decent sausage for a cooked breakfast?  So to further my quest for a decent breakfast, I tried a different hotel this time:  The Solna.

As you drive into the Hotel car park, there is a speed hump for anyone courageous enough to be driving a family car at any rate of speed through the closely spaced stone gate posts.  Steps lead up to the main doors which are mostly glazed with uncracked panes of glass (sort out the other two panes, chaps.) and once through, the greeting was amiable and my room key dispensed with reasonable promptness.  No awkwardness about whether to tip or not for carrying my heavy case up the stairs and to my room, because the amiable chap stayed on his arse behind the front desk as he called out directions to my room.  No, sorry; to my suite. I don’t recall booking or agreeing to pay for a suite, but my room door is clearly bestowed with a brassy nameplate announcing that I am staying in the something-or-other suite. Have I taken a wrong turning? Well the key fits, and it opens the door to my suite.  I turn the light on to reveal: A room with ideas above its station.  This is no suite.  Surely one would expect a suite to have a sitting area with a sofa or easy-chair, or even some floor space which isn’t used up by the introduction of a suitcase, of all things, to the room.  I’d even settle for curtains which meet in the middle, I’m not fussy.  Well clearly I am, but I prefer the term: discerning.

I’m sure, when I booked the room, I’d informed them that I was leaving the family at home but for some reason the double bed and the single bed, crowbared into this room, were not sufficient for me and my suitcase.  Clearly what I needed was a camp-bed to hide part of the three square meters of wasted floor space and to slow down my access to the wardrobe and thus put off the inevitable disappointment of discovering the ironing board. 

When I booked the room, I asked if an ironing board could be brought to the room upon my arrival, because I was going out to dinner shortly afterwards.  I was informed, with misplaced pride, that every room had an ironing board and iron.  How could the Hotel survive by tying up capital in having a decent ironing board in every room?  Simple: buy the most useless excuses for ironing boards you can find, then every patron of the hotel can be irritated simultaneously should they all need to iron at the same time.  The slightest nudge to the thing caused it to collapse, so I decided not to rest the iron itself on the board but on the desk.  I’m not sure whether the creases on my shirt were caused by one or more of the collapses or by the scrotal nature of the ironing board cover; I resolved to keep my jacket on all evening.  At least I’m in with a chance of a hot shower and a decent breakfast.

Oh dear.  The shower had been running for one minute and still no hot water, not even tepid.  Bored of standing in the bathroom, shivering, waiting for the warm water, I tried sitting on the bed.  Then I tried watching some celebrity come dancing thingy on the TV: some chap was doing the itchy-bottom-dance (Salsa to those in the know.) Four minutes gone: still cold.  Had I missed my allocation of hot water between minutes one and three?  No; One more minute (and another televised dancer in need of Anusol) later and I finally had a hot shower.  Revived by the shower I was more forgiving about the state of this old hotel.  It’s not a modern, soulless building; it has character, it has history, it has a broken hook on the back of the bathroom door, a toilet roll holder that falls off the wall when you touch it; it has blobs of white paint on the curtains, wallpaper (and  even some left on the woodwork.)  The TV remote worked – I know this because the light on the remote flashed brightly each time a button was pressed – but it had obviously fallen out with the TV, because it was paying no attention to the frantic messages sent from the controller.  So I was stuck watching the dance of pruritus ani until I was ready for dinner. 

Dinner was magnificent.  Dinner was a short taxi ride away from the hotel.  On my return, steamingly replete, I slept like a log and coincidentally awoke next morning feeling as rough as one.

Breakfast started well:  The cornflakes were done perfectly.  A little breakfast menu informed me that I could choose from bacon, sausage, fried mushrooms, tomato, baked beans, egg cooked to your choosing and black pudding.  I love black pudding.  I decided to have bacon, sausage, black pudding and poached egg.  I prepared to give my order to the waitress as she approached.  A competent waitress, she had no need of a pad to take my order.  A clairvoyant waitress, she set down a plate of the cooked breakfast in front of me before I could place my order.  Impressive:  A cooked breakfast just as it was ordered.  By whom it was ordered, I don’t know, but not by me. There was no black pudding and the egg was fried.  The bacon had been warmed under the grill and removed before the fat approached anything you could describe as crispy, the mushrooms must have come out of a tin, but the fried egg was done perfectly and would have pleased any man who had wanted a fried egg and not a poached one.  Now, on to the sausage:  One thing I strive to get right at breakfast, and occasionally get wide of the mark, is the perfect poached egg.  There seems to be a real knack to it.  Sausages, however, I have a real aptitude for.  I’m obviously gifted, because so many hotel kitchens fail where I triumph.  Here’s my secret: You go out and buy decent bloody sausages!  How hard can it be?  Solna Hotel, your sausages get 6/10.

The Search for a decent hotel breakfast continues

Out of all the dishes and meals you could cook, I had never thought that breakfast was a particularly difficult one to pull off.  However, it is a rarity that I have a hotel breakfast that is flawless.  I'll stop here for a moment and offer one mitigating point that we could consider in a hotel's defence: unlike an evening service, where patrons are booked-in to allow the kitchen to spread the work, breakfast must be a case of an unpredictable army of hungry over-sleepers descending on the breakfast room en mass.  All leaving it as late as possible to get their money's worth out of the room; spending extra time in the shower with no worry that the hot water cylinder will run out, pondering whether they will ever use the shower cap that they've already packed along with the sachets of coffee they don't normally drink and the sweeteners that they never take.  There, I've offered up a defence for the hotel but, for goodness sake, it's the business they're in and they should know how to deal with it.

The most common way of dealing with the stampede for a cooked breakfast is to have it all cooked ready, under cloches, scrambled eggs separating out in to dry solids in a sweaty watery puddle, bacon and fried eggs taking on a rubbery character, beans reducing to starchy clagginess, fried slices reabsorbing any surrounding grease.

The hotel breakfast-room I set my bleary eyes on this morning was part of the Macdonald Hotel group.  Although they had forgotten to deliver a newspaper to my room, they had taken the care to replace the mental exercise of the crossword with an unusual teaser as I entered the dining room.  I greeted a member of staff with a smile and a pause to allow some indication of the modus operandi of the set-up, failing to receive more than a reciprocal smile, I wandered on to find a table.  It appears that I had incurred a penalty for a false start and had to be called back into the control of the be-suited starter to be informed that under his assistance I would be less likely to "wander aimlessly around" to find a table.  Grateful for such prompt intervention I dutifully followed my guide a few paces towards two, identical, vacant tables indicating that I may be seated here and placed a hand on a chair at one of the tables.  What I should have realised was that this was clearly an indication that, under no circumstances, should I sit in this chair.  Further more: should I sit here and not at the virtually identical table next to it, it would be totally unsuitable for my breakfasting needs and I would need to get up out of the chair and reseat myself at the correct table.  Unfortunately I was clearly a little tired and misunderstood what I should have done.  I know this, not because I was feeling tired and stupid, but because my guide kindly suggested it to me so I felt at ease, having a ready excuse for my dim-wittedness.  Well, it's going well so far, I wonder how this splendid man can help me with... oh, he's gone.  Off to assist another misguided soul, no doubt.

A different member of staff took my breakfast order and, being lower down the chain of command, was nearer my lower cerebral level and we understood each other perfectly well.  Whilst I awaited my cooked breakfast, cooked to order I assume, my tea arrived as did the toast rack.  In these tight financial times, a hotel is under financial pressure, what with over-use of the showers and carpet-bagging of sacheted items, and savings must be made.  The toast rack was designed to hold 6 slices, but filling it would be an extravagance for just two diners, after all, the slices were at least a little bigger than a slice of supermarket malt-loaf, similar to the size of an old C-90 cassette tape.  Also, the thin pat of butter was kept under a cloche, presumably to stop it evaporating away.  Where I must congratulate them on cheffy cunning, is giving the toast the appearance and taste of being burnt on the edges, yet avoiding the amateur error of getting the toast crisp and warm.  The genius of this was to avoid the disappointment of the toast going cold during the long wait for the cooked breakfast.  Having said that, I don't mind waiting for a breakfast cooked to order and done well.  For me a key element of a decent cooked breakfast is the sausage and, to be fair, the sausage of this breakfast - the single, modestly sized sausage - was rather adequate; Not too much of a preservative tang and slightly herby. The bacon was okay, the fat almost crisp.  For many people, the Holy Grail of poaching an egg seems to be a neat, tidy little poached egg.  This poached egg was pleasingly tidy, having a Halley's comet appearance like it had set the instant it hit the water, the yolk nicely runny but the white, what there was of it, was a little chewy with a slight tang like it had been cooked in vinegar.  Give me a slightly rustic looking poached egg with a soft, yielding and soft tasting white, any day.  The black pudding, was listed on the breakfast menu as MacLeod and MacLeod Stornoway Black Pudding, which I believe is award winning.  The taste was good but I imagine it had been poached in oil in the kitchen because, although a soft black pudding is comforting, it fell apart on the plate and in the mouth with a less than comforting greasiness.
The sad thing is: this is one of the better chain hotel breakfasts I've had.
The search goes on.

Thursday 3 November 2011

Full English Ravioli

I did this a while ago.  I'm blogging it here to get to grips with Blogger.
I don't normally make my own pasta.  I'm quite happy with the quality, price and convenience of dried pasta.  However, to make ravioli I really need to make my own pasta.  The idea got into my head after seeing a contestant on Masterchef make ravioli filled with egg yolk, each raviolo containing a whole, intact yolk.  I wondered about doing the same but also having black pudding in half of the ravioli.  With the short cooking time I was unsure about reheating the blackpudding sufficiently so - perhaps unnecessarily - used a vegetarian black pudding (V-Pud) which is rather good in its own right.








To make the pasta I used 200g of flour,
made a well in it and added 2 beaten eggs,
combining the eggs into the flour using fingertips.
The recipe advised that if the resulting mixture was too dry
to form a dough, to add sufficient water.
I then worked the dough, kneading until smooth.
Then rested, well come on, I deserved the rest.









During this time I dusted off one of my pasta machines.


You may wonder why a chap who rarely makes pasta has two machines for the purpose and you would be right.  I find myself wondering why the same sister bought me pasta machines two consecutive Christmases.

I passed the dough through the rollers, starting wide, gradually reducing the setting to end up with thin sheets of pasta.
  


For the egg ravioli I separated the eggs
and placed an entire yolk in each raviolo, dampening the edges of the pasta and
carefully ensuring no air pockets were
left before sealing edges and cutting
out the ravioli.  

I did much the same with
slices of blackpudding.


 

 






I allowed 3 minutes in boiling water to cook the ravioli and served with sage butter.  










On reflection the dish would have worked much better with a cream sauce with some lardons.

I would also make sure all photos were in sharp focus.